The art of surfing waves allows me to tune in to Nature’s rhythms. The essence of my 20 years of experience is infused with freedom. A passion both solitary and generous that introduced me to sharing and adventures. Surfing has been and always will be a wonderful source of self-education for it teaches me balance between Man and Nature. The necessity for the useless as well as the futility of the imperative. What could be more beneficial to the soul than enjoying waves during the transient moment when their shape is the most elegant?
As I have been searching for simplicity, bodysurfing appeared a few years ago like a revelation. Unfurling my body above the surface is to my humble experience the most intimate and minimalist way to ride, offering a unique range of emotions. The discipline is a commitment as it requires physical endurance and ocean knowledge in different yet complimentary ways other than surfing.
From the hunting game that unveils my primal instinct to the friendliness of a dinner satisfying my loved ones with a grilled fish that I caught myself, I feel great contentment hunting my own food in a practice that goes beyond just sport. It is the realization of my life ethic and philosophy that sums up to only take what I need in respect of the natural resource and to share it with whom understands my approach.
Holding my breath, spontaneously fasting from the most elementary need that is breathing fresh air. Allowing myself to descend to the depths of the Ocean, silently witnessing it’s other face underneath the tumult of waves and access to a world of unsuspected adventures where calm and subtlety reign. The magic is revealed in an inner journey that reinvents itself every day, depending on conditions and emotions, an antidote to monotony where nothing is ever unchanged.